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Found 109 results

  1. Purse for my mom

    Hello, everyone! My mom is on a trip so I decided to make a surprise for her when she gets back. This purse is from 6 oz. veg tan and lined with suede. The strap is 8 oz. I hand tooled all of it from a pattern in a book. It took me an estimated total of 30 hours from start to finish. Let me know what you think! (My mom hasn't seen this yet!)
  2. I can finally post these now that the contest is open. A special commission to create custom knife sheaths for TripleX Knives in Nova Scotia (www.xxxknives.com) for a global Instagram contest they are running. If you have an Instagram account to can view the contest details here until October 5th: https://is.gd/k8oE6I Large knife has a 9" blade. 30 deg cross draw with a removal dangler option. Small knife is a 3.5" blade with a dangler. Had free reign on these so took the opportunity to work on my carving and coloring techniques.
  3. Moar Bracelets

    So how best to put brand new tooling stamps through their paces? Well for me, leather cuffs! Been having loads of fun with my brand new scale set, and with seeing how different colors look with them. Another neat one that shows off some of the metallic sheen I've put on it, plus a horween 5 strand for fun.
  4. Newbie from the Twin Cities

    Hello! I'm new to the world of leatherworking and I'm looking gain as much knowledge as I can! I have an interest in constructing leather armor pieces, bags, and other accessories along the way and to improve my tooling skills to add beauty to those pieces! I'd love to make friends in the community and would love to hear any tips or tricks you have for someone making their first foray into the craft. If you're in the Minneapolis/St. Paul region I'd love to know what stores you go to or if there are any interesting leather conventions/guilds around. Thanks! Elli
  5. This is the first project I've posted about...Tandy Bullseye holster kit for a 6 inch S&W 686...I've created several rejects trying to make my own pattern for this one, so I thought I'd try a different route. I'm hoping that through finishing a pre-cut pattern I'll see how things come together so I can move forward with my own holster patterns. Any advice will be appreciated... Below pic shows beveling and bordering done...stamping tri-weave tonight, and then wet molding tomorrow. I have read quite a bit about this process and decided to go the tooling then forming route to see how it works out. Also, if anyone can give me tips/best practices about posts, posting pics, etc., I'd really appreciate it...thank you!
  6. I was wondering if there are any good DVD's you can recommend for basic to advanced leather carving and tooling. I am a visual learner and would love to find a few good DVD's. Or if there are any on youtube you really like that would be great too. I've scoured youtube but Im sure I haven't found them all! Thanks
  7. I'm new to the the leather game and want to charge enough to make a profit, however, I like to hook people up with one of a kind items affordably. What would you sell this for? It took me 4 hours to tool.
  8. Haven't posted any projects for a while. Made a new phone case for wife. 4/5 weight.leather with magnetic clasp. 3 card slots ( full with 9 cards). Saddle stitched six stitches per inch.
  9. Tooling A Knife Sheath?

    Hello I'm new to tooling, but have been a knife/sheath maker since 1966. When I make a sheath, I know I need to " back " the leather before casing and tooling, Here's my dilema, in order to make my stitch groove I need to have a good sanded edge to follow. Without putting the sheath together first, I can't get that perfect edge? If I put it togerther first I can't tool it because there's no solid backing behind the blade area? I can't tool the front first, or the edges of the layers may not line up? Has anyone else run into this " catch 22 " situation? At the very least, this is a hard problem to explain, but if anyone "gets it"??? I'd appreciate any help you can offer? If I'm not giving enough information, please let me know. Regards: Stoney327 owner/operator Pappy Dave's Knives Berwick, Pa. " In business since 1966 "
  10. Hey guys - Here's a bifold wallet I just finished for myself. I decided on a crab design because I'm from Oregon and we love our dungeness there and am also a Cancer in the zodiac thingy. Initials are on the front, crab design on back. Traced it from a real picture of a dungeness I found on the internet. Stitching is tandy brown polyester. Edges beveled and then burnished with gum tragacanth. Made it from a 4-5oz single shoulder from Tandy but had to skive it down a bunch so it wasn't too thick. More pics at www.instagram.com/leathercrabwallet Please let me know what you think. Thanks! Ted
  11. So after a few ideas and some thinking, I've finally come up for a solution to my hand cramping when I'm tooling, especially beveling. Just put a small preferably round or cylindrical object under your ring finger, and wrap the finger around it while tooling. It supports the hand and, at least for me, prevents it from cramping or falling asleep. Notice the piece is not quite at the base of the finger in the picture. This is the proper placement of whatever object you're using. Curl your ring finger around your chosen object. Though you can't really see it, the piece is still in my hand in this picture. It also doesn't get in the way of anything I'm doing. I hope this helps out! Give it a try. Let me know what you think. I've got a couple of ideas for improvement already, one is to use a bead with an elastic loop around my finger. The other is a design for a fingerless support glove with a leather band across the area I've been holding the object to keep my hand from fully closing like it does without holding something there.
  12. By the end of the week I am expecting to receive the following in the post: A cheap (Chinese made, with probable Japanese influence) beginner's sett of leather working tools from Ebay A remnant/pieces pack of leather, needles, and thread from The Identity Store A copy of "The Leatherworking Handbook" by Valerie Michael from Amazon Yet to acquire from the local chain DIY store (probably nearer the time, or on Sunday if it slips my mind before then which is likely to happen) are: wood and fixings to make a cheap stitching pony Evo-Stik Time Bond contact adhesive an Oilstone (or similar) for inevitable initial sharpening of previously mentioned tools as well as general upkeep later on miscellaneous things that catch my eye which may be helpful such as clamps, sandpaper, straight edge etc Other things yet to be appropriated into my "kit": worksurface stuff (cutting mat, poly board, granite (or similar)) decent desk lamp as most of my work will be completed in the late evening/small hours after finishing the late shift at "the day job" and goodness knows my eyes will need all the help they can get edge slicking substance graph/grid paper for when I feel up to making my own patterns bone folder type tool stitching awl Things I already have, yet to be consolidated together: poly mallet basic geometry set (ruler, square, compases etc) pencils large toolbox for storage stack of "craft" drawers for storage non-marring spudger set which I'm sure will come in handy for poking/prodding in crevices metal bodied Utility knife (and blades) Extra Virgin Olive Oil in lieu of more specialist finishes tonnes of old clothes for rags Things I will probably get at a later date once I get a feel for everything (this does not include ad hoc replacement/upgrading of any of the above when needed): butcher's block style work station (as I'll mostly be working at my 10yr old pine desk in my bedroom initially, maybe out in the shed weather permitting) relevant dyes, treatments, etc and relevant applicators basic carving tools (I do not plan on getting into this much but I guess it's always handy to be able pop a pretty border on something special) ___ I know the cost of starting a new hobby from scratch is always going to be a major consideration, but it seems leathercraft is even more so. Yes I know it's no good moaning to other people who have all been there/done that, but starting out on a shoe string is still likely to cost me upwards of £100 ($125 for you colonials ). Being the sort of person I am, often doing things on a whim, and generally cautious with cash, I do not want to go to the lengths that some do and get The Works in terms of equipment and materials to start with. I don't want to spend a small fortune on something if I don't end up getting decently into it to justify the cost. That said, it seems the general advice in terms of initial outlay is "get the best you can afford" and that's what I'm doing I suppose. I guess there are those out there who have started out with much less, and I have no need nor reason trying to justify what I'm doing. I guess in a way I'm secretly hoping that I get sufficiently good enough at the whole "leather thing" that in the long run I can start going to fairs, events, do made-to-order and the like, and be able to become (at least partially) self employed. But that's definitely a long way off. I think for me leathercraft will always be a matter of being on a shoestring, at least in the sense of trying to get the best from the least. I've always been enthralled by the way craftsmen of all disciplines in years gone-by have come up with ingenious solutions which even centuries or millennia haven't changed much, and as much as possible I want to keep what I do "low-tech": drawing up templates by hand rather than using PC software, using as traditional methods and tools as possible, and if possible trying to be authentic in style/process with any historical based pieces I produce. I (like to think) I am fairly good at improvising, and this will also keep costs down. Who needs a £40 edge slicker when a double-pronged piece of deer antler (free if you know where/when to look) will do? Or expensive black dyes if you can master the likes of vinegaroon and lampblack?
  13. Hello All, I have been working on some new tooling and would like to get your feedback on things that could be improved. I thought it turned out well but as always all of us are smarter than one of us. This is my version of a lace cutter. It does both 90 degree cuts and 45 degree bevels. The main bar is 1" steel and about 5" long. I use a shaft collar for quick and repeatable width adjustments. It is attached by bolts or can simply be clamped to your table. there is no wobble in the fitting of any components and its very solid. The main shaft rotates so the angle of the bevel can be facing the collar or away from the collar. I tried to do two things. One is to make it small enough that it could be out all the time without taking up too much space on the bench while being large enough to be very enjoyable to use. Second, I spent some time sourcing off the shelf components so as to keep the price down. I hope the pic resolution is high enough to see the details. Anyways, thanks for looking. Josh
  14. Fierce Fish Stool Seat

    After 25ish years of not doing any, I finally took the plunge on a tooling project. I'm making a tri-leg stool and this is the seat. Now I'm studying all there is is to study about antiquing and really hoping I don't screw it up. Please feel free to offer any opinion you may have on how to finish this thing.
  15. Hi there everyone. I am just getting into leather work, and really want to start tooling. I bought a pretty cheap swivel knife with a set of stamps, and have found it extremely difficult to cut with. I have to push on it very hard to get a cut, and it gets stuck and drags. It also doesn't leave a very wide V cut as it should. I have sharpened it very well but to no avail. I think the blade is just cheap. So my question is, what is a good blade for floral carvings? I was looking at the Barry King ones because I heard they were good. I don't know much about the different kinds though, and what thickness should I be looking for? Also, not sure what will work with my knife, the blade I currently have is held in with a set screw. Not sure if the size of the piece that goes into the barrel can be different or anything. Thanks so much in advance! I'm excited to get into tooling, and have a lot of projects I want to start, but it's hard when I can't get my swivel knife to cut.
  16. Hello, So, I've been wanting to SEE a good comparison between Hermann Oak and Wickett & Craig, there is a lot of people somewhat DESCRIBING the differences (or lack thereof), but I have not found anyone having actually documented it with photos/video. So, I received some swatches from W&C the other day, and decided I'd upload some pictures for reference. I have been only using Grade A Hermann Oak (yes, true Grade A). I was excited to hear that Wickett & Craig's tooling leather is lighter in color, and that they have no minimums straight from the tannery! I have to say, though; I am a little concerned with the flesh side quality of the swatch I received. The big thing I've taken away from HO's Grade A tooling leather is that the flesh side is always very tight and the fibers seem to be very short and consistent across the back. I was hoping that would be the case for Wickett & Craig's top grade leather, but the quality isn't quite the same for the flesh side. The flesh side of the W&C tooling swatch seems to be looser, the fibers seem to be a bit longer and inconsistent. Not a HUGE difference, but a difference, nonetheless. Now, I wrote the sales manager regarding the quality, assuming that the swatches that they used were just from scraps and aren't of their "Standard" or "Top grade" quality. The response I received was this: "The flesh will not be a problem Zayne. I'm sure it is just where they clicked the swatch?" Im not exactly sure that means, but I'm assuming it has something to do with them cutting out the swatch with a press, and it just doesn't seem like thats what would have caused the flesh side to be the way that it is. Anyway, have a look at the photos I uploaded. Again, I don't know for sure if the tooling swatch W&C sent me is factually top grade, but the sales manager didn't say that it was or wasn't when I asked him, hence the response. So, I'm assuming that the swatch I was sent IS their top grade, unless one of you can prove me wrong! In one of the pictures, I included the flesh side of the "Oak Skirting" swatch I was sent with all the other swatches from W&C. The flesh side of this one really scares me. It reminds me of the first cheap side of leather I purchased from Tandy. I'm really hoping this isn't W&C's "Standard" quality. Please prove me wrong! P.S.- I am in no way trying to throw shade at Wickett & Craig, I actually do prefer the lighter color of their tooling leather compared to Hermann Oaks. I'm really just looking to provide some information and hopefully gain some insight in return.
  17. For anyone who might be interested, it's not too late sign up. I still have a few seats left in some of the workshops and I will be accepting walk-ins, first come first serve for any remaining seats. Contact the Leather Crafters & Saddlers Journal for more info (715) 362-5393. This is GREAT SHOW in a beautiful facility. Feb 21-26. Don't miss your chance to see a great variety of vendors under one roof. And be sure to stop by my booth, located in the foyer, and say hello! See you there!!! y
  18. stamping backgrounds

    Hey all! I've only been working with leather for just under a year but I've taken to it rather quickly and I'm really loving it, especially leather carving and tooling - likely due to my past experience with woodcarving - but I'm really having a hard time using background tools properly. I can't seem to figure out how to blend the impressions of the background stamps cleanly, or how to keep the color in the the background consistent - some spots are always a bit more bruised and dark than others even though I try to keep the pressure of my strikes uniform. I would really appreciate any tips, advice, pointers and/or links to videos and tutorials. I've watched a lot of youtube vids but can't seem to find anything that really helps me in this department. Thanks so much! I look forward to learning from everyone here. Meg
  19. I recently my wife asked me to make a wedding guestbook for my daughter's wedding. She didn't give me much lead time so I pushed some things a little hard. It is 5/6 oz veg tan except for pockets in front cover that is 3 oz veg tan that was quite soft which caused me some problems in stitching and edging. It is dyed Fiebrings British Tan. I had to re glue the edge of the 3 oz leather after stitching as it pulled up in some spots I think I got it down pretty good. The tooling on the back is not quite symmetrical. I'm still saddle stitching everything. Let me know what you think. Here are a couple more photos.
  20. Hi all. Thought I would share a recent project of mine. This is a briefcase I finished not too long ago. Comments welcome!
  21. I'm going to start a large project. I'm going to create an armor and a shield. I have a detailed tooling design that I really like and have thought a lot about that covers a lot of the leather. To do it well, it's not something that can be done within a 48 hour sitting (long as I can stay awake). Like the chest plate and a large dragon on the sheild. Oval shield. I've been told that you should keep it cased in sections, and that keeping the leather wet for long periods of times is not good for the leather and can create mold. When I cased it in sections for some pieces I had for a 18" dragon head it created waterstains. You can't notice it if you're not looking for it or don't know it's not supposed to be there because I dyed it a darker color and had antique gel. But for this and future projects I want to avoid that. I've also been told that you should mold it after tooling if you do not have a solid mold. Someone else who doesn't have experience said molding after tooling you should use cold water and a hair dryer, and another you should use boiling water. I don't really trust they knew what they were talking about.
  22. So I seen this style tooling pattern and used it on this guitar strap I did recently . but I wanted to find out if anyone knew the name of this style or what it is ? Ps I apologize if I submitted this in the wrong topic area .
  23. Design based on Stohlman art, altered slightly for this project. Magnetic closure, two pouch sling bag for notebook and pistol. Didn't ask why he needed to carry a notebook and a pistol.
  24. Hi there. This is my first post. I have read a lot here on leather sewing machines here and I wish to ask about my situation specifically. I was aiming to get one for my birthday in July but 6 months off work with cancer treatment (going well nearly finished I hope) has delayed that idea for quite a while now, but, I thought I would pick your brains anyway and get my head around what I am looking at. I DONT want any fighting between cowboy/cobra/silrite/consew/juki supporters as I have a lot of respect for the sellers of all those machines who have given lots of info and free time to help others. I have hand sewn some light bags and put my poor little Janome Mystyle 18W through hell with a little clutch bag. (I like what Arthur Porter does in Dallas)I cannot hand sew for long as I have a damaged nerve in my arm from dialysis (yeah if I was a sewing machine i would be on the scrap heap by now!). I would also like to incorporate leather in my teddy bear making. I want to use at several layers of least 5-7 oz tooling Veg- tan leather in some products as well as other lighter leather at this point. (I would include pics of my stuff but the pc is not cooperating) I only have a small area (90cmL x 60cm W) so large machines are out of the question. I have looked online at (in no particular order) at the Sairite zig zag/consew CP2064/Cowboy (3200/3500/4500)/Cobra 3/4s/4P machines and have heard of Juki 441 machines as well. Can I also get the size of the tables/pedestals as they will have to be factored in to my little niche. I am in the eastern suburbs of Melbourne. I have heard of Cowboy and Cobra being in Queensland but not down south (must be too cold down here for them :^} ) So if there is any distributors down this way to deliver and help set it up, it would be really good. There are other places in Melbourne but they only seem to carry big machines. Ideally about $800 - $1000 for the smaller Consew/sailrite machines would be good but I don't know if they will suite. I would use that as a springboard to go from there to a larger one like the Cowboy/cobra or save up to get the larger machine cowboy/cobra at a later date. Oh and whoever gets my sale (eventually) I am dyslexic so I will ask a HEAP of questions. For that reason I would prefer new, although I saw a really cute Juki LU-562 with Dayton gear motor on a forum here earlier and thought it looked fantastic!!!!! Thanks in advance. Boofy