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Found 116 results

  1. I’m hoping someone knows where Tandy’s veg tanned leather comes from, specifically their tooling leather, harness leather and the European single bends that they sell. Any insight would be much appreciated. I'm in Canada, I'm not sure whether that changes things considering Tandy has locations around the world. I would just like to know which tanneries they buy from.
  2. Box

    Finished one of two boxes for watches, still need to do the pillows.
  3. I’m here to confess my curiosity about Stricking / Tooling Sticks, along with my lack of knowledge about them. I am hoping this community can help me to understand the construction and use of these sticks so I can reproduce one or two for myself. I am very excited to try tooling with one. I have some these sticks that similar to a maul. Others I’ve seen are 18” to 20” long. Some with both ends square and a handle in between, others with square end and tapered to the opposite end. I’m somewhat confused as to the use of the longer version. Questions: 1). Is the extra length just there for counter balance? Also used like a maul? 2). Or is the extra length used of the lever point, using it and the elbow resting on the table as the pivot point? I have purchase enough Katalox I believe to make a long and a short version, but need your help/input before I can make the first cut. Thank you Tane
  4. Hi guys, I'm relatively new to leatherwork, and brand new to the forum, so I hope someone can help! I've only played around with a few belts until now, with modest success, but I stumbled upon a BEAUTIFUL guitar strap made by singer Johnny Fritz and I was hoping to do something similar. I have attached a picture. In particular, I noticed some linework that doesn't seem to be done with the usual beveler/backgrounder. I'm referring to the arrows near the middle, or the 3 little { shaped marks above the word Ezra. Even the letters of the name Ezra appear to be done by hand. It may well be that I'm just too inexperienced to know it, but I can't imagine doing this with the standard set of tools I have. It seems like it's more of an outline, an even trench tooled into the leather. The arrows, for example, don't appear to be raised or lowered, but simply flush with the surface of the leather, and the outline is uniformly indented. Any idea how this is achieved? Lastly, the colour on the letters is very clear, is that just painted on after antiquing? I hope someone can help! Thanks in advance. Ben Huckleberry, Adelaide, Australia.
  5. When I was starting to work with leather, my brother-in-law gave me a box of all his scraps. Most of it was latigo. A few years later, I wanted to build myself an archery quiver, as I shoot archery tournaments at Renaissance faires. I decided to try working with that box of scraps. I came up with a completely unique design, and tried tooling a bit on a couple scraps I wasn't using. After a few failures, I decided, with little actual training from an experienced leather worker, to try carving my designs, then try to tool it from there. I started by carving my designs first, then I laid a wet cloth on the leather until it started absorbing the water, then began tooling. SUCCESS! I created an incredible looking quiver, with a lot of great Celtic knotwork and my personal emblem on it. I brought it to the local leather supply to show a friend that worked there, and has since been promoted to district manager. He looked it over, complimented me on the work, but said it shouldn't have worked using latigo leather. It actually only took me two days to complete the carving and tooling for all the panels, but assembly took about five days, and lots of blood from sticking myself with the needles. I'll post a few pictures in a few hours as I have to unbury it from my mobile workshop.
  6. My 4th Project

    So I did this recently for my Son for his birthday. I'm new to leather. I started about 4 or 5 months ago. This is my fourth leather project and I am in need of some serious critiques. I struggle most with dyeing and coloring to get the effect or results I want. Any pointers or constructive criticism is very welcomed. Thanks and Cheers, Leland
  7. Dying

    Hi All, I have tooled this dragon onto 2mm veg for my daughters laptop cover. She would like it dyed black, but will it stand out in black? I was going to antique it then dye it light brown. What do you all think? Thanks. T
  8. Hello, everyone! My mom is on a trip so I decided to make a surprise for her when she gets back. This purse is from 6 oz. veg tan and lined with suede. The strap is 8 oz. I hand tooled all of it from a pattern in a book. It took me an estimated total of 30 hours from start to finish. Let me know what you think! (My mom hasn't seen this yet!)
  9. I can finally post these now that the contest is open. A special commission to create custom knife sheaths for TripleX Knives in Nova Scotia (www.xxxknives.com) for a global Instagram contest they are running. If you have an Instagram account to can view the contest details here until October 5th: https://is.gd/k8oE6I Large knife has a 9" blade. 30 deg cross draw with a removal dangler option. Small knife is a 3.5" blade with a dangler. Had free reign on these so took the opportunity to work on my carving and coloring techniques.
  10. Moar Bracelets

    So how best to put brand new tooling stamps through their paces? Well for me, leather cuffs! Been having loads of fun with my brand new scale set, and with seeing how different colors look with them. Another neat one that shows off some of the metallic sheen I've put on it, plus a horween 5 strand for fun.
  11. Newbie from the Twin Cities

    Hello! I'm new to the world of leatherworking and I'm looking gain as much knowledge as I can! I have an interest in constructing leather armor pieces, bags, and other accessories along the way and to improve my tooling skills to add beauty to those pieces! I'd love to make friends in the community and would love to hear any tips or tricks you have for someone making their first foray into the craft. If you're in the Minneapolis/St. Paul region I'd love to know what stores you go to or if there are any interesting leather conventions/guilds around. Thanks! Elli
  12. This is the first project I've posted about...Tandy Bullseye holster kit for a 6 inch S&W 686...I've created several rejects trying to make my own pattern for this one, so I thought I'd try a different route. I'm hoping that through finishing a pre-cut pattern I'll see how things come together so I can move forward with my own holster patterns. Any advice will be appreciated... Below pic shows beveling and bordering done...stamping tri-weave tonight, and then wet molding tomorrow. I have read quite a bit about this process and decided to go the tooling then forming route to see how it works out. Also, if anyone can give me tips/best practices about posts, posting pics, etc., I'd really appreciate it...thank you!
  13. I was wondering if there are any good DVD's you can recommend for basic to advanced leather carving and tooling. I am a visual learner and would love to find a few good DVD's. Or if there are any on youtube you really like that would be great too. I've scoured youtube but Im sure I haven't found them all! Thanks
  14. I'm new to the the leather game and want to charge enough to make a profit, however, I like to hook people up with one of a kind items affordably. What would you sell this for? It took me 4 hours to tool.
  15. Haven't posted any projects for a while. Made a new phone case for wife. 4/5 weight.leather with magnetic clasp. 3 card slots ( full with 9 cards). Saddle stitched six stitches per inch.
  16. Tooling A Knife Sheath?

    Hello I'm new to tooling, but have been a knife/sheath maker since 1966. When I make a sheath, I know I need to " back " the leather before casing and tooling, Here's my dilema, in order to make my stitch groove I need to have a good sanded edge to follow. Without putting the sheath together first, I can't get that perfect edge? If I put it togerther first I can't tool it because there's no solid backing behind the blade area? I can't tool the front first, or the edges of the layers may not line up? Has anyone else run into this " catch 22 " situation? At the very least, this is a hard problem to explain, but if anyone "gets it"??? I'd appreciate any help you can offer? If I'm not giving enough information, please let me know. Regards: Stoney327 owner/operator Pappy Dave's Knives Berwick, Pa. " In business since 1966 "
  17. Hey guys - Here's a bifold wallet I just finished for myself. I decided on a crab design because I'm from Oregon and we love our dungeness there and am also a Cancer in the zodiac thingy. Initials are on the front, crab design on back. Traced it from a real picture of a dungeness I found on the internet. Stitching is tandy brown polyester. Edges beveled and then burnished with gum tragacanth. Made it from a 4-5oz single shoulder from Tandy but had to skive it down a bunch so it wasn't too thick. More pics at www.instagram.com/leathercrabwallet Please let me know what you think. Thanks! Ted
  18. So after a few ideas and some thinking, I've finally come up for a solution to my hand cramping when I'm tooling, especially beveling. Just put a small preferably round or cylindrical object under your ring finger, and wrap the finger around it while tooling. It supports the hand and, at least for me, prevents it from cramping or falling asleep. Notice the piece is not quite at the base of the finger in the picture. This is the proper placement of whatever object you're using. Curl your ring finger around your chosen object. Though you can't really see it, the piece is still in my hand in this picture. It also doesn't get in the way of anything I'm doing. I hope this helps out! Give it a try. Let me know what you think. I've got a couple of ideas for improvement already, one is to use a bead with an elastic loop around my finger. The other is a design for a fingerless support glove with a leather band across the area I've been holding the object to keep my hand from fully closing like it does without holding something there.
  19. By the end of the week I am expecting to receive the following in the post: A cheap (Chinese made, with probable Japanese influence) beginner's sett of leather working tools from Ebay A remnant/pieces pack of leather, needles, and thread from The Identity Store A copy of "The Leatherworking Handbook" by Valerie Michael from Amazon Yet to acquire from the local chain DIY store (probably nearer the time, or on Sunday if it slips my mind before then which is likely to happen) are: wood and fixings to make a cheap stitching pony Evo-Stik Time Bond contact adhesive an Oilstone (or similar) for inevitable initial sharpening of previously mentioned tools as well as general upkeep later on miscellaneous things that catch my eye which may be helpful such as clamps, sandpaper, straight edge etc Other things yet to be appropriated into my "kit": worksurface stuff (cutting mat, poly board, granite (or similar)) decent desk lamp as most of my work will be completed in the late evening/small hours after finishing the late shift at "the day job" and goodness knows my eyes will need all the help they can get edge slicking substance graph/grid paper for when I feel up to making my own patterns bone folder type tool stitching awl Things I already have, yet to be consolidated together: poly mallet basic geometry set (ruler, square, compases etc) pencils large toolbox for storage stack of "craft" drawers for storage non-marring spudger set which I'm sure will come in handy for poking/prodding in crevices metal bodied Utility knife (and blades) Extra Virgin Olive Oil in lieu of more specialist finishes tonnes of old clothes for rags Things I will probably get at a later date once I get a feel for everything (this does not include ad hoc replacement/upgrading of any of the above when needed): butcher's block style work station (as I'll mostly be working at my 10yr old pine desk in my bedroom initially, maybe out in the shed weather permitting) relevant dyes, treatments, etc and relevant applicators basic carving tools (I do not plan on getting into this much but I guess it's always handy to be able pop a pretty border on something special) ___ I know the cost of starting a new hobby from scratch is always going to be a major consideration, but it seems leathercraft is even more so. Yes I know it's no good moaning to other people who have all been there/done that, but starting out on a shoe string is still likely to cost me upwards of £100 ($125 for you colonials ). Being the sort of person I am, often doing things on a whim, and generally cautious with cash, I do not want to go to the lengths that some do and get The Works in terms of equipment and materials to start with. I don't want to spend a small fortune on something if I don't end up getting decently into it to justify the cost. That said, it seems the general advice in terms of initial outlay is "get the best you can afford" and that's what I'm doing I suppose. I guess there are those out there who have started out with much less, and I have no need nor reason trying to justify what I'm doing. I guess in a way I'm secretly hoping that I get sufficiently good enough at the whole "leather thing" that in the long run I can start going to fairs, events, do made-to-order and the like, and be able to become (at least partially) self employed. But that's definitely a long way off. I think for me leathercraft will always be a matter of being on a shoestring, at least in the sense of trying to get the best from the least. I've always been enthralled by the way craftsmen of all disciplines in years gone-by have come up with ingenious solutions which even centuries or millennia haven't changed much, and as much as possible I want to keep what I do "low-tech": drawing up templates by hand rather than using PC software, using as traditional methods and tools as possible, and if possible trying to be authentic in style/process with any historical based pieces I produce. I (like to think) I am fairly good at improvising, and this will also keep costs down. Who needs a £40 edge slicker when a double-pronged piece of deer antler (free if you know where/when to look) will do? Or expensive black dyes if you can master the likes of vinegaroon and lampblack?
  20. Hello All, I have been working on some new tooling and would like to get your feedback on things that could be improved. I thought it turned out well but as always all of us are smarter than one of us. This is my version of a lace cutter. It does both 90 degree cuts and 45 degree bevels. The main bar is 1" steel and about 5" long. I use a shaft collar for quick and repeatable width adjustments. It is attached by bolts or can simply be clamped to your table. there is no wobble in the fitting of any components and its very solid. The main shaft rotates so the angle of the bevel can be facing the collar or away from the collar. I tried to do two things. One is to make it small enough that it could be out all the time without taking up too much space on the bench while being large enough to be very enjoyable to use. Second, I spent some time sourcing off the shelf components so as to keep the price down. I hope the pic resolution is high enough to see the details. Anyways, thanks for looking. Josh
  21. Fierce Fish Stool Seat

    After 25ish years of not doing any, I finally took the plunge on a tooling project. I'm making a tri-leg stool and this is the seat. Now I'm studying all there is is to study about antiquing and really hoping I don't screw it up. Please feel free to offer any opinion you may have on how to finish this thing.
  22. Hi there everyone. I am just getting into leather work, and really want to start tooling. I bought a pretty cheap swivel knife with a set of stamps, and have found it extremely difficult to cut with. I have to push on it very hard to get a cut, and it gets stuck and drags. It also doesn't leave a very wide V cut as it should. I have sharpened it very well but to no avail. I think the blade is just cheap. So my question is, what is a good blade for floral carvings? I was looking at the Barry King ones because I heard they were good. I don't know much about the different kinds though, and what thickness should I be looking for? Also, not sure what will work with my knife, the blade I currently have is held in with a set screw. Not sure if the size of the piece that goes into the barrel can be different or anything. Thanks so much in advance! I'm excited to get into tooling, and have a lot of projects I want to start, but it's hard when I can't get my swivel knife to cut.
  23. Hello, So, I've been wanting to SEE a good comparison between Hermann Oak and Wickett & Craig, there is a lot of people somewhat DESCRIBING the differences (or lack thereof), but I have not found anyone having actually documented it with photos/video. So, I received some swatches from W&C the other day, and decided I'd upload some pictures for reference. I have been only using Grade A Hermann Oak (yes, true Grade A). I was excited to hear that Wickett & Craig's tooling leather is lighter in color, and that they have no minimums straight from the tannery! I have to say, though; I am a little concerned with the flesh side quality of the swatch I received. The big thing I've taken away from HO's Grade A tooling leather is that the flesh side is always very tight and the fibers seem to be very short and consistent across the back. I was hoping that would be the case for Wickett & Craig's top grade leather, but the quality isn't quite the same for the flesh side. The flesh side of the W&C tooling swatch seems to be looser, the fibers seem to be a bit longer and inconsistent. Not a HUGE difference, but a difference, nonetheless. Now, I wrote the sales manager regarding the quality, assuming that the swatches that they used were just from scraps and aren't of their "Standard" or "Top grade" quality. The response I received was this: "The flesh will not be a problem Zayne. I'm sure it is just where they clicked the swatch?" Im not exactly sure that means, but I'm assuming it has something to do with them cutting out the swatch with a press, and it just doesn't seem like thats what would have caused the flesh side to be the way that it is. Anyway, have a look at the photos I uploaded. Again, I don't know for sure if the tooling swatch W&C sent me is factually top grade, but the sales manager didn't say that it was or wasn't when I asked him, hence the response. So, I'm assuming that the swatch I was sent IS their top grade, unless one of you can prove me wrong! In one of the pictures, I included the flesh side of the "Oak Skirting" swatch I was sent with all the other swatches from W&C. The flesh side of this one really scares me. It reminds me of the first cheap side of leather I purchased from Tandy. I'm really hoping this isn't W&C's "Standard" quality. Please prove me wrong! P.S.- I am in no way trying to throw shade at Wickett & Craig, I actually do prefer the lighter color of their tooling leather compared to Hermann Oaks. I'm really just looking to provide some information and hopefully gain some insight in return.
  24. For anyone who might be interested, it's not too late sign up. I still have a few seats left in some of the workshops and I will be accepting walk-ins, first come first serve for any remaining seats. Contact the Leather Crafters & Saddlers Journal for more info (715) 362-5393. This is GREAT SHOW in a beautiful facility. Feb 21-26. Don't miss your chance to see a great variety of vendors under one roof. And be sure to stop by my booth, located in the foyer, and say hello! See you there!!! y