Trox

Contributing Member
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About Trox

  • Rank
    Leatherworker.net Regular
  • Birthday 07/07/1959

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    Trox

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Oslo Norway
  • Interests
    Dogs,Boats,fly Fishing, Industrial sewing machines, leather tools And Volvo Veterancars

LW Info

  • Interested in learning about
    When I stop learning, I am dead

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  1. 27 £ at college sewing machine https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/store/CPHAD68-BOBBIN-CASE-CAP-ADLER-68-HIROSE Not expensive made by Japanese Hirose...they make good parts
  2. Hi, Yes s Uwe yours have just groves that makes it harder to get tight tension on thin threads. His is worn right true and would cause problems, I would have changed that bobbin house for a new one...You can get them aftermarket for a good price.. You could try to widen/make the hole round again with a small diamond round file or simmilar..But remember it has to be polished afterwards...Use a white ceramic thin stone....
  3. Yes these are important factors, you will get a more consistent top tension threading true several holes. You probably got to ease of on the thread brake, thought. When you the thread knot laying on the top and it suddenly happens in the middle of the seam, those are factors I would have looked out for. Could be caused by uneven bobbin winding or bobbin case opener too, but then perhaps more frequently and probrably with the knot on the bottom. However, everything must be correct...check all thread paths for chips in the metal etc. Good luck!
  4. When something like this happens it' often because the top thread suddenly get a brake or bottom bobbin is uneven winded. To make the top thread tension stabil you need to make sure of the following factors.... On the thread rack...(use left twisted thread, it usual left twisted) the thread guide on top of the spool must be placed exactly over the center of the thread spool/cone... If it off center you will have uneven top thread tension. Make sure you thread it true at least two holes in the top pin post guide....you can even apply more tension by use several holes....this way you will have a stabil top tension....Bobbins must also be evenly winded... good luck!
  5. How are you Macca, I now know I this is a Pfaffrath plough and a Otto Langenhan knife. I traded it with a friend in USA that have the rest of the Langenhan plough. Tor
  6. Speed Reducer Pulley In The Uk

    The torque of the motor is constant because it has that characteristics and it runs on full speed all the time, but when you put a smaller pulley on it it will be weaker on the output; it will do more work. Changing from a big 120 to a small 48 mm pulley will give you less speed, this is just like riding a bike and change gears. To improve both torque and low speed control, use a speed reducer. If you have a 3 Ph clutch motor, use frequency controller. It will solve the problem, that if your clutch motor have enough power to start with. Minimum 550 - 600 watt and a good clutch (upholstery class). There are many ways to control a good clutch motor, but putting your right hand on the pulley to help slow it down. Taking of your shoes to get a better feel on the pedal etc. But do you have an ancient weak clutch motor to start with, change it out with something new; preferable a servo of good quality.
  7. Sorry to see you are leaving the trade, Send an PM to Johanna about the emails.
  8. Bridle bubbles

    You got to let Sedgwicks look at this leather Arild, and post the result here please. Tor
  9. Bridle bubbles

    Seems that others have had the same problem with Sedgwick bridle Arild, have you seen this. Tor
  10. It seems that others have had the same problem with Sedgwick bridle Arild, have y ou seen this. Tor
  11. Bridle bubbles

    Hi Arild, I don't use these nice Bridles leather so you got to contact the tannery and ask. However, I guess is that it is just the wax coming up to the surface and you can brush/buff it off. Tor
  12. Nice work Arild! Good color combination!
  13. I used to work for a small Norwegian company that built and sold laser machines. We also did laser shows on advents/ big music advents etc. That time we used mostly tube lasers for big events, they needed a lot of power and water. The modern YAG (diode) lasers was still not powerful enough. These cutting Co2 lasers are puls lasers and that's what's make them that powerful. But I remember we had a 40 watt argon (tube) green laser that burned true a plaster wall on a steady beam. I know these tubes have a limited burning time and if the water supply fail you have big trouble. However, it's funny how cheap they have become. I think you should be careful about moving these around until they are cooled all the way down (if thats neccessary for one reason or another). That time there was only one computer program for lasers avaiable. That was made for Windows and we used windows bitmap pics on graphics, logo projection etc. Good ventilation and steady water supply is neccessary of course, always use safety glasses. I does not matter how many mirrors the beam is reflected true, it still travels to the "moon" and burn your eyes. I remember we had to alert and have permission from air traffic control for outside events. Remeber, it's serious power. I look forwards to hear more about how these inexpensive units works out. Good luck
  14. Budget Heated Foil Press

    Thanks, LumpenDoodle2 I will check it out Adam I know all about having to many projects at once Yes the Americans have it all.