TLP

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About TLP

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    knife sheaths
  • Interested in learning about
    everything leather working related
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  1. did you ever check to see if the charms were magnetic? if so could silver solder. if brass bronze or copper also could silver solder, anything else would not try to solder. And not to be negative but epoxies like jb weld will not hold up over the long run. (My old jewelry teachers would have fit if I suggested its use) the only sure connection is to use solder or a mechanical connection (ie rivet)
  2. What kind of metal are the charms? anything other then silver, stainless steel or regular steel will be difficult. with the mentioned metals they can be silver soldered to a back pin of some kind and instant concho. with pot metals not so easy, the pot metal will melt before the solder. you may be able of epoxy a post to the charm, but it is almost certain to pop off. you might also try to solder to charms to a post with stabrite solder, a low temp solder for things like pot metal, but would be iffy in that you still might melt the charms first, but it is probably your best and strongest option.
  3. was going to use 6 strands
  4. What should I use for the core on a bolo cord?
  5. what stamp is used for this pattern
  6. Just learned of a new book out at Amazon, Making Jewelry Design Stamps, runs about fifteen dollars
  7. Its actually a page from Indian Jewelry Making by Oscar Branson
  8. I think you answered your own question, Your other work sells in a timely manner, this does not, time to put this stamp in the back of your drawer. If someone asks for it then Ok, burt otherwise stick with what sells.
  9. How is a silver belt tip attached? The kind that come with the three pc ranger buckle set, the buckle, keeper and tip.
  10. Here is a new pattern for me that I carved from wax last fall
  11. I do cast lost wax in bronze and Sterling, and also fabricate from sheet and wire.
  12. I do belt buckles in Sterling silver and Bronze, and have never had a problem with the metal and leather reacting with each other. Do not know if there is a reaction between pewter and leather but do not think there is as there are a lot of die cast pot metal buckles out there. Are you going to be fabricating (start with sheet and solder on parts) or casting?
  13. Old metal goverment surplus desks work well for work benches, cover the top with a double layer of 3/4" cdx plywood {for rigidity}, with a pc of 1//4" tempered hardboard for a sacrificial cutting surface, when the hardboard gets torn up tear it off and replace with new. Cut leather on the hardboard surface, tool on the marble surface.
  14. The dagger you made is currently very hard, but also very brittle. If you drop it on a concrete floor it may shatter. to make the blade less brittle you need to draw back the temper by heating your knife to 400 deg F. the blade will show a light straw color at which time you will requench to prevent overheating. The knife forums and sites will go into greater detail on the heat treating process. and you would be prudent to do a bunch of research before you draw back the temper. On a leather stamp I would heat the tool to red hot heat at which the steel becomes nonmagnetic, quench, then polish off all of the scale and oxidization. I would then heat the stamp from the end which is struck with the hammer/mallett. the color will start at straw and then go to the darker colors. you will then watch as the straw color travels down the length of the tool when the straw color reaches the head of the stamp cease heating and quench. you do not want to overheat the struck end and it will end up a purple color, definatly do not heat to red hot at this stage. You will end up with a differentially heat treated tool, the head will be hard with the shaft being softer. ALSO YOU NEVER STRIKE YOUR TOOLS WITH A STEEL HAMMER, IT WILL MUCHROOM THE SHAFT ENDS.
  15. The threading on the tubes for the 155 1-6 Osborn rotary punch turned out to be M7x1 metric threads. my tap arrived yesterday and it took very little effort to run the tap in and out, after which all but one of the punch tubes went in, on the stubborn tube I ran the tap in and out a couple more times and it to threaded in and went to full depth.