Big Sioux Saddlery

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About Big Sioux Saddlery

  • Rank
    Leatherworker

Profile Information

  • Location
    South Dakota
  • Interests
    Using and farming with Draft Horses

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Harness and Saddlery
  • Interested in learning about
    Anything that will make my job easier and faster
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    google

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  1. Horsey repair stuff

    I beg to differ, based on what I see come through. People that don't know horses consistently underestimate the weight and strength of leather needed in tack and equipment, and underestimate the strength of a horse as well. I have to agree with the liability warning, and unless the OP, and anyone else considering repair/fabrication of horse equipment, is able to work closely with someone who DOES have extensive horse experience, I would advise sticking to projects that don't carry the liability issues.
  2. Got a Pearson #6!!!! wee hooo!!!

    I sure hope you got her a new toothbrush! Lol That is my rule of thumb with ALL vintage machinery. If metal rubs against metal, it better be running in oil.
  3. Oil after Tan Kote?

    I agree with Chrisash. I have never used any type of vegetable oil, although I know some top makers do. I haven't been impressed seeing the saddles that come in the shop, belonging to people who say they use olive oil, or peanut oil, or anything BUT neatsfoot oil.
  4. Got a Pearson #6!!!! wee hooo!!!

    Ditto, except I'm not Mennonite, but my mother was, if that counts for anything.
  5. Got a Pearson #6!!!! wee hooo!!!

    It does provide a warm fuzzy feeling, doesn't it? I can't answer for the OP, but it is possible to spend way too much time changing machinery over to do a different job, even in a small shop. For example, I have frequent projects that require several needle/thread size/thread color throughout the project. I hate spending 5-15 minutes changing a machine, and then have to change it back again, and TRY to get it set back where it was. So yes, there are very good reasons for having multiples of even the same type of machine. Time is money.
  6. Oil after Tan Kote?

    Tan Kote, while not as heavy a finish as Resolene, will hinder the absorption of oil, at least until it is worn off. Is it possible to lightly oil the piece from the flesh side? Any oil you apply will change the color. To what degree depends on the leather itself, how much oil you apply, and possibly the type of oil. I only use pure NF and a blend of NF called Harness oil, which has something added to repel rodents from chewing on whatever you oil with it.
  7. suppliers that split english bridle

    Unsplit leather will have vein marks showing on the flesh side, and a less "split" look. . . not quite a perfect on the flesh side. Most everything I've seen under 10/11 oz has been split. And you're right, Wickett does a nice job splitting.
  8. Yep, kind of like the cattle/beef market.
  9. Who uses a Pearson #6

    I agree. Not only do those new machines have no life, there is no way to make them lay down a stitch like the machines that were designed to be saddle and harness stitchers.
  10. Who uses a Pearson #6

    . . . You do know that it doesn't ever really stop, don't you?! A friend of mine says a chosen few of us have an obligation to rescue this vintage equipment. Lol.
  11. Age? Blanket Pin Fender Adjustment

    Judging from the style of the saddle, I'd say '50's model. I might have some old pins that I replace with Blevins, if used would suffice. As far as I know, it would be sheer luck to find any of these new, although I'm sure someone has a NOS set lying around in a box somewhere. As for the rosettes, Ralph Shimon saddles used to have them, but I do not see that kind on the saddles of the people who bought his company. I do have half round punches with points instead of scallops, and rosettes can possibly made using those. I am laid up for a couple days from a shop accident involving sharp objects and too much clutter on the floor. When I'm healed enough to be able to grip a punch, I'll see what I can do.
  12. SOLD

    Are you moving back to Iowa? Or back there already?
  13. WTB round/head knife

    I have one I just listed on a FB group. No mark, newer knife, doesn't hold an edge super well but I can get it sharp enough to skive with reasonably well. Good one to practice your sharpening techniques on. I kept it around as a bench knife for cutting straps to length, rough skiving, or skiving repair work. . . Anywhere I didn't want to use my good knives. Asking $40 plus shipping. I'll see if I can get a picture to load. It says the file is too big, and honestly idk to edit it on my phone. If you want to PM me your cell number I can text pics to you. I guess I should find out where you are. . . I'd rather not ship internationally. I have a few edgers I'm looking to sell also.
  14. Smell of Leather

    YinTx, that would be fantastic if you could send me some samples! Mighty neighborly of you! I don't see a location listed for you but I'm assuming you are in the states. . .Tx perhaps. Lol. Do you acquire your Sedgwick's from overseas or is there a distributor in the states. There may be an opportunity for me to start creating more English work. The bridle leather from our domestic tanneries are just fair, and I know the high end English work made from real English bridle leather is far superior to anything tanned and made in the US. I will PM you may address if you are willing to do that. It is very much appreciated!!
  15. Smell of Leather

    My experience has been primarily with the saddlery and harness leathers from the two vegetable tanneries left in this country, plus a few that have closed since I started, vs the cheaper leather from South America, Mexico and finished equine products made from leather tanned in Asia. I don't use a lot of chrome tanned leather, and rarely know where it's coming from when I do buy it. If it stinks, I'm probably going to send it back to the supplier. Both Hermann Oak and Wickett's leather has a pleasant smell, although not overly strong. I honestly have to put my nose right up to a fresh side to smell it. However, I guarantee that if there was a new side of saddle skirting from Brazil in the shop (it's been 30 years since there has, and it's not ever going to happen again), I would be able to smell it the second I walk in the door. This is even more true of the harness and strap goods made in Asia. That stuff stinks, and I can smell it from across the shop. I hate to even have any of it sitting waiting for repairs to be done, because it makes the whole shop stink. The leather from Brazil and the leather from Asia that I'm referring to do not smell the same, or even similar. Some of the leather from Brazil smells a bit like 2,4-D weed spray. The Asian-tanned leather that I'm talking about smells like. . . a cross between horse urine and something I can't even describe. Leather tanned in Mexico has gotten less offensive, and I have used some Chahin leather, although I avoid it for the most part. It has a less pleasant, less "leathery" smell than either Hermann or Wickett. I have not used Barenia leather, that I know of. Nor have I used Sedgwicks, since I do very little English work. Edit to add: I forgot about the tanneries that have closed. Muir McDonald skirting had the most peculiar smell, almost like cinnamon, quite pleasant. I only got 2 or 3 sides from them when I was first starting out, but wish now I had gotten more. I like the way it aged. Moser skirting had a less pleasant smell, not offensive necessarily, just not a smell that made you want to keep sniffing it. I used some Westan skirting before they closed, and don't remember anything in particular about the odor, but did like the way it worked.