Big Sioux Saddlery

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About Big Sioux Saddlery

  • Rank
    Leatherworker

Profile Information

  • Location
    South Dakota
  • Interests
    Using and farming with Draft Horses

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Harness and Saddlery
  • Interested in learning about
    Anything that will make my job easier and faster
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    google

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  1. Size limits, or ya can't keep any, at all??
  2. Holster looks good, for all I know about holsters, but about that tackle box and NOT fishing. . . I thought you moved to MN so you could fish MORE!
  3. Most, if not all, of Weaver's hardware is cast overseas. There was an Amish company getting some of their hardware cast either in the USA or Canada. Hillside maybe? Shoot, can't remember, anyone help me out here? I'll do some checking. I tried some of it a few years ago, and in all honesty, the overseas stuff seemed like better quality! Heavier and neater castings.
  4. You wouldn't happen to have a picture of that shuttle would you? Just curious, as I too have a somewhat unusual shuttle that came with one of my Landis #1s, although there is a standard tension spring on mine.
  5. What type and weight of leather are you trying to soften? If it is heavy vegetable tanned leather that has gotten dry and stiff, saddle soap will do next to nothing and sometimes make it worse. I am partial to Neatsfoot oil for heavy veg-tan leather, especially anything that will see outdoor or equine use. There are other preparations and conditioners available, and everyone has their favorite, but saddle soap is not meant to soften leather, regardless of what anyone told you or what the label may say. For lighter weight leather or fine, personal leather goods, a cream type conditioner may be more appropriate than NF oil.
  6. I get all my bells from Weaver and the cast CB and SB have holes for riveting. The SB numbered bells are made for a pin to go through the tab on the bottom. They also have NP and BP stamped steel bells with a hole for riveting. If you can't find what you need there, I'd say you will probably have a hard time finding it.
  7. Bob is right, price is WAY high on it. Also, very limited versatility with the narrow throat. You would hate it if doing any saddle, tack, or harness work.
  8. It was the first machine I sewed on also, and used exclusively for the first 15 years I was in business. I love those old machines! I have three of them, but none have much paint left on them. Somewhere, I'm pretty sure it was on this forum, I can remember seeing a picture of a REALLY nice original #1. Have you tried a search?
  9. The harness appears to be made from burgundy latigo, which will likely be somewhat resistant to a good dye job. Latigo has waxes and oils added during the manufacturing process, and may have a finish coat, all of which will resist your attempts to change the color. To be sure, black dye, (and yes there is a "regular" Fiebings black dye, as well as an oil dye) will change the color, but you may not get good, complete coverage. Meaning there could be a tendency for the burgundy to show through the black, and a tendency for the black to rub off onto anything it touches for years to come. This can happen even with good quality black harness leather that has been drum dyed and finished at the tannery. In my experience, I have gotten more rub-off from the oil dyes than the regular Fiebings dyes. I know this goes against common opinion, but time and again, that's what I've seen in my shop. I usually opt NOT to spend the extra money on the oil dye if I have a choice between that and the regular dye. As a professional shop, I almost always turn away a job such as this, and advise the client that if they want to they can certainly try it on their own, but I am not optimistic as to a great outcome. I would be very displeased if I had specifically ordered a black harness and received one made from burgundy latigo, and I would strongly voice my displeasure to the company I purchased from. Best of luck to you whatever you decide to do.
  10. I have seen attempts to sew harness on one of these machines. While they may have the capacity, the results are crude at best. I can't imagine trying to do fine work on one. Visibility is extremely limited by the large foot. I would save the $600 and put it toward a machine better suited for your needs. This is a flatbed machine. For heavy leatherwork, generally a cylinder arm is more useful.
  11. THAT I would like to have seen. There is an original flour mill in Neligh, NE that was built in 1873 and still has all the original mill equipment. It is a museum now. Even though it is not leather related, it was fascinating for me to visit. I was especially intrigued by the leather belts still in place on the machinery. Made from what appeared to be perfect hides, no neck or shoulder wrinkles were visible anywhere, and the splices were nearly imperceptible. Only thing better would be finding an old harness factory still intact and original from the early 1900's.
  12. I also have a saddle nearly identical to the OP's. Same tooling pattern, same buckstitching. Mine has the horn broken off. A customer brought it in and left it because it is not worth fixing. They are, in fact, made in Mexico, and are el cheapo saddles, not worth putting anything more than a new latigo on, because at least you can switch that to a different saddle. They are made from inferior materials, and when you look at how they are put together, it is scary that they are allowed to be sold and used. Sorry to be blunt, but I've seen hundreds of these throughout my years in business.
  13. There are harness parts that can hit the one inch mark pretty easily if one doesn't actively try NOT to. Tug ends and Breeching ends primarily. Although I've never made a bareback rigging, used on bucking horses in rodeos, I've been told they'll hit an inch also. Cantle bindings on a handmade saddle will definitely hit an inch, although we hand sew those.
  14. I sewed on a Landis One exclusively for at least 15 years and still use one occasionally. Wiz's advice is pretty solid, as usual. One other thing that is important for this machine to do good and consistent work is for the bobbin to be wound tightly and very evenly. If you did not get a bobbin winder with the machine, you can drill a hole in the side of your bench, chuck the bobbin into a drill and insert the other end of the bobbin into the hole to wind the bobbin. I did this for many years before I found a bobbin winder. I also used a metal lathe when I had access to one for a couple years. Also, the tension plates could have a deep enough groove worn into them that they won't hold tension anymore. If this is the case, just the way the thread comes off the spool could cause enough resistance to mimic the tension from the plates and the machine sews good for a few inches, and then when the thread gets to a different spot on the spool and unwinds more easily, you lose tension and the loops show up on the bottom. As Cowboy Bob mentioned, pull the plates and check for a groove.