Big Sioux Saddlery

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About Big Sioux Saddlery

  • Rank
    Leatherworker

Profile Information

  • Location
    South Dakota
  • Interests
    Using and farming with Draft Horses

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Harness and Saddlery
  • Interested in learning about
    Anything that will make my job easier and faster
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    google

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. 4 leather harnesses for dogs

    What is your location?
  2. Sixty Button Reins

    Ummm, yeah, I had that part figured out. What I was wondering, was what the OP does during processing those greasy hides to end up with a nice hide for braiding. I don't like working greasy hides. Old range cows that get poor and die before they can be put in the feedlot to get some flesh on them so we can get them to the sale barn have nicer hides to work, no grease. There aren't many dairy cows that are allowed to get old anymore. I'm told they freshen twice and then they're on the truck when production starts to drop after the second calf. That's a 4 year old cow. A 4 year old dairy cow might very well have a nice hide, but I don't know because I've never tried one for rawhide.
  3. Sixty Button Reins

    That's interesting. The few I've gotten from the local locker when I've taken steers in for processing have been extremely greasy. Would you care to share your process?
  4. The "Slant" to Saddle Stitching (??)

    Well DAMN! Here I had you all figured for a frilly underwear guy! Now I gotta redo that whole mental picture of what you look like
  5. Sewing with a machine - the basics

    I gotta say, nothing I ever learned in Home Ec . . . 4 years of it if I remember right. . . prepared me for sewing leather, or much else in life for that matter. I'd have been a whole lot better off taking shop class, and wanted to, except back then I'd have been the only girl in shop class. Of course, the stuff I sew, and the machines I use bear virtually no resemblance to anything in Home Ec, except the machines both use some type of thread.
  6. Leather BS (aka nashville hustle)

    I have forever said that instead of trying to peddle leather goods at the trade shows, we ought to have a food booth! Or beer, at the shows that offer that!
  7. Adler K205-374 question

    No confuzzlement, true story!
  8. Pearson #6 photos needed

    Yes it is, but everyone has their poison, right?! I will not apologize for mine to anyone!
  9. Schmetz needle difference

    The 7x3 will have a very sharp point, but will make a round hole, not at all an attractive stitch for leather. The S point needle cuts more of a slit in the leather, which makes a better looking stitch in leather. The S points are not recommended for nylon, because they are more apt to cut the fibers than a sharp round point needle.
  10. Schmetz needle difference

    The 794S denotes "S" point, or spear point, and is for leather. I believe the 7x3 is a round point for nylon and other textiles. You COULD use it for leather, but it would produce an unattractive-looking stitch.
  11. Pearson #6 photos needed

    Here is my theory, and even though I don't have a Pearson, I do have quite a few vintage heavy stitchers. There was a period of time when these heavy vintage machines weren't worth much. The harness and saddlery trade all but died when the automobile and later the tractor replaced horses as a means of transportation and power. While some of the machinery got weighed up for scrap, what remained sat idle for years, sometimes decades. Generations came and went, and while its not so easy to just pick up a Pearson #6 and throw it in the trash, a bobbin winder is easily handled by one person and it would be all too easy for someone "cleaning up the shed" to discard something that was taking up space and not being used. I believe that with the passing of generations, people did not realize what the bobbin winders were anymore, and they got discarded. I have personally bought, at an auction where the auctioneers should have known better, a bobbin winder for a Landis One, sold as an "apple peeler". Not only was it in perfect condition, it also had the original wax pot fastened to the board. I paid $40 for it. I didn't tell them that it wasn't an apple peeler! At a different 2-day auction, I know for a fact some of the accessories for machinery that sold on the second day, got sold on the first day, due to lack of knowledge of the organizers. Bobbin winders are also easily damaged in transporting, and some likely got damaged beyond repair and tossed. This is speculation on my part, based on facts of what happened to the industry over the past 80 years.
  12. Adler K205-374 question

    Have you tried tightening up the tension on the bobbin case? There is a point in (over)tightening it that it actually starts to get looser. You'll never get as tight a stitch as the old stitchers, but you may be able to improve it a little more. You'll have to match any increased bottom tension by adjusting top of course.
  13. Sixty Button Reins

    That in and of itself is impressive! Are you getting hides from local slaughterhouses, or from ranchers?
  14. larger tubular rivets?

    The supplier I'm referring to is Beiler's Mfg and Supply in PA. They will not have a website, as they are Amish. They do have a telephone though, and take credit cards over the phone as well. I believe they are wholesale only, so you will need a tax ID number to set up an account with them. They handle mostly equine-related hardware and supplies. Their number is 717-656-2179. I think the strength of the #104 would be fine for your application, as long as the straps are stitched also. In that case, the rivets mostly keep the ends from lifting and coming unstitched. There are many places in harness construction where a simple #104 rivet is used for the same purpose. I am thinking however, a larger head and larger area of contact on the back side would be better if used for fastening the straps to a bag, even if used just for reinforcement along with stitching. I have two heavy tool bags that came in the shop just yesterday for the very reason that the rivets pulled through the material, due to the "splashed" part of the rivet not covering enough area. I would not put two rivets side by side on a one inch strap. I feel that is taking too much material out of the width of the piece, weakening it considerably. Sometimes I will use two #104 rivets side by side on a 1-1/8" strap, when turned back around a buckle and riveted, but rarely if ever on a 1" strap. The way you have been doing it, with the #9 solid copper rivets, may be the best option. It provides the larger head size, and the strength. Weaver does offer a solid brass #9 rivet with burrs, that would match your hardware. Solid brass is more difficult to set than copper though. They have them in both #9 and #12. The #12 is a nice in-between size, and I use a fair number of them in copper.
  15. larger tubular rivets?

    I would like to know the answer to this as well. I have gotten some from a couple different sources, and all that was different was the heads were larger; the diameter of the shank was the same as the #104 rivets. Weaver's #103 rivets don't come longer than 1/2", and I'd like some at least 3/4". I see a lot of the type of rivets you are looking for on older horse collars, which is also the application I need them for. While I can get the smaller diameter rivets in a length that is long enough, they usually bend when trying to set them, because the shank diameter is too small for the length. Getting a setter is a whole separate problem. I ordered one from Weaver a couple years ago. When it came, the driver was nowhere near long enough to work. They sent me a new driver, and I still had to put a chunk of cut-off bolt up in the head of the press to make it work. I am using the MT900, and the setter was supposed to be made to fit the machine. The whole ordeal was frustrating beyond belief. Beilers lists a #2 rivet with a 3/8" head and 3/16" diam shank, 5/8" length in SB. While that is not long enough for my application, it may work for you. They also offer the newer shallow-drilled rivets in a variety of lengths and sizes, but only in SS. These rivets take a special setter, which they also sell. I have not used these yet, although I am seeing them on some new manufactured harness.