Treesner

How to make motorcycle bag straps stronger

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3_BC9_F044_C12_D_4_CD6_BD6_B_7_C11380816C43_E2288_8_D9_C_431_D_8_A51_C0_BB4145599_F6_F72_CB_27_FA_46_BD_8_EE6_8901_B11_CWorking on a sheath for my band saw for the dirtbike. I run it on the handlebars and it takes a ton of absuse. This is the second one that I’ve sewn on and had it rip. When I stiched it with #69 on a sailrite I went back and forth a few times, curious if that made it weaker.. I added these copper rivots after it ripped to make it stil work. Anyone have any solutions for a stronger design next time I make one?

 

 

Edited by Treesner

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When you stitch across a strap as you have done, you have effectively made a serrated line, similar to the line between 2 postage stamps.

If you need to sew on a strap, a longer stitch length and only a single pass can be stronger because it has not compromised the width of the strap as much.

You may have seen on some sewn equipment, a strap that has been sewn on to a bag or whatever, where the strap has been sewn in a square around the end. By sewing this way, you have 2 line of stitches across the strap, but they are separated by a piece of undamaged strap. There is also the stitch-line running along each side of the strap, which is the strongest direction and not so likely to cause a strap to fail.

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What weight leather are you using first off? I’d just go with the copper burr rivets and like 10oz and maybe reinforce it on the inside.

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What weight leather are you using first off? I’d just go with the copper burr rivets and like 10oz and maybe reinforce it on the inside.

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On 7/13/2018 at 8:22 PM, Rockoboy said:

When you stitch across a strap as you have done, you have effectively made a serrated line, similar to the line between 2 postage stamps.

If you need to sew on a strap, a longer stitch length and only a single pass can be stronger because it has not compromised the width of the strap as much.

You may have seen on some sewn equipment, a strap that has been sewn on to a bag or whatever, where the strap has been sewn in a square around the end. By sewing this way, you have 2 line of stitches across the strap, but they are separated by a piece of undamaged strap. There is also the stitch-line running along each side of the strap, which is the strongest direction and not so likely to cause a strap to fail.

thats what I was thinking that a stick makes it less strong. good call on making stick length longer. on something like this would you stop right before the ends or go over? If you go over seem like it would make it easier to tear the stick loose? 

On 7/14/2018 at 6:47 AM, Mattsbagger said:

What weight leather are you using first off? I’d just go with the copper burr rivets and like 10oz and maybe reinforce it on the inside.

Think this is around 6oz. Was thinking after the fact that 10 oz for the strap would be better and would be easier to accomplish by using rivets. would you widen and do two vertical rivets or just one? 

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38 minutes ago, Treesner said:

would you stop right before the ends or go over?

Some people say stitch past the ends of the strap, some say that leaves the stitch vulnerable to wear. I think it depends on your point of view and possibly the place where the stitches are being placed.

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