Firewalker

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About Firewalker

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    Member

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  • Website URL
    campbellleatherworks.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Texas
  • Interests
    Woodworking, scuba, flying, sailing

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    New to all
  1. Arbor Press modifications for snaps/stamps

    Sounds good. Thank you for the replies. I think I will pull the trigger on one of those.
  2. Clicking from the "wrong side"

    Excellent! Thank you so much for the reply. I was about to do it the "expensive way" I love this site. Scott
  3. Clicking from the "wrong side"

    Thank you for the reminder. I was stamping a makers mark into a project a little while back and it was late in the build. (I forgot to do it before stitching it) I ended up picking up the old cut marks in my grain side and was less than impressed. Jeff, Thanks for the reply. I was tempted to give it a try and see how it looked last night. My shop is still not set up and the press stays "stored" until I dig it out to do a run. I don't use it often but tend to use it for several hours and do everything I need at once then put the old girl away again. The shop press is what I am using as well. I would love to have a hydraulic clicker but the weight and power demand makes it impossible for me. My shop will be in a 24' car hauler as I travel for my real job. I didn't even know the double sided dies existed honestly. I will have to give it some thought on what I am needing and checking pricing on them. I could see them working well on thicker leather but allowing some sag in the thinner stuff. I think the left and right version will be close enough for what I am working on. Thanks for the reply. Helpful as always! Scott
  4. Arbor Press modifications for snaps/stamps

    Hello again Bob, The price point certainly makes it interesting and it is exciting to hear of zero failures. I have read about one press in particular that had proprietary dies that required the user to only use their snaps. Is this how it is with Gold Star? Line 20 snaps are what I am using almost always and I am showing they are 0.5cm according to Tandy's site. Does it take the 5mm to set line 20 or am I missing where you just order the line 20 die. I am interested in seeing how the bottle jack works on the arbor press. I am picturing the press bolted to the bench and the bottle jack under one of the spokes. Is that how you are doing it? Does it ever slip off of the knob? I would really like to see a picture of the set up if you care to share one. I wonder if a cheater pipe and a bungee would work in a similar way? Thanks again for the replies. Scott
  5. Hello all, I have been reading clicker die threads for about an hour or so and haven't seen this mentioned. I really do try to search before posting so here goes. I have a clicker press and have used dies to cut out various projects but I have not ever cut them from the flesh side. (I didn't have the need to before) I am wanting to have some more dies made and it would be much more affordable to have a single die made that I could simply flip the leather to get the other side cut out. Doe it work just as well cutting from the flesh side as it does the other way around or does it look different? IE: Distort the grain side or leave a lot of fuzzy bits? I have noticed when cutting from the grain side it leaves a very nice cut edge that slightly rounded over. It is beautiful and as close to perfect as I need but haven't paid a lot of attention to the flesh side when I have been cutting. I am trying to not have more dies made than I need and if they will cut just as well either way it would basically save me half by not having the mirror die made. If anyone has tried it both ways please let me know what you would recommend. On the outer edges they will be sanded and burnished so it's not as critical. On the edge of an inner flap or pocket it may or may not be burnished depending on the style I am shooting for. I appreciate any feedback you might be able to provide. Thanks in advance. Scott
  6. Arbor Press modifications for snaps/stamps

    Bob, Thank you for the reply. I appreciate the reply and I agree, it would be costly to have the arbor machined. I am just trying to fine the most efficient manner of doing a lot of different tasks. I am having a brass makers mark and another custom stamping plate made which I am hoping to hot stamp. The Gold Star does seem to be a pretty good deal if it works well for setting snaps. Does it do so without many failures? I am wanting to "buy it once" on this one so I want to make sure it is a dependable tool that doesn't give you headaches. Maybe buying one of those for just snaps and an arbor press as a dedicated makers mark/hot stamping machine would be ideal? What do you think of that plan? I already have a 12 ton I could potentially mount the magnetic chuck system to or maybe have the ram drilled out precisely? Lot of ways to skin a cat here. Thanks again for taking the time. *** Is the correct die for line 20 the 5mm? Scott
  7. Second Holster

    Mighty fine job there Ryan. I don't have a single bad thing to say about it. That dog will hunt. Cheers! Scott
  8. Arbor Press modifications for snaps/stamps

    Hi there Seabee. Thank you for your interest in the thread. After reading some of the previous material that was linked I agree with many in that if I am only setting one or two I will do it by hand. Unfortunately I have had many of them get set off center when doing so. Perhaps the post is longer than it should be or it is the very basic version of a Tandy setter I am using. I am trying to gain speed so I can complete production runs instead of doing 9 stages on one piece then starting another piece. I am hoping to have the need to set 100 snaps at a time and need to be more efficient and accurate when doing so. I do not aim to cut any corners but instead have every snap or rivet be set correctly in a matter of seconds and not even have to question if it is correct. My "shop" is a 24' car hauler I had made and it is quite loud inside with mallet strikes. The press would be easier on my sanity and keep up better relations with the neighbors as well. This is my goal in moving from singles to batch work. Wishing you all the best! Scott
  9. Arbor Press modifications for snaps/stamps

    Thank you so much for the reply. I didn't know that about using that in a google search. Instead I was searching the individual forum categories that seemed appropriate. Between watching YouTube videos and searching for specs from vendors I was sure my eyes were bleeding when I posted the question. The stamps will be made overseas and I didn't want to pick the most oddball size ever and not have anything compatible. Nothing worse than taking something new out of the box and modifying it to work. This has been excellent advice and I thank you for taking the time to reply. Perhaps I will be able to help you in the future. Take care and thanks again. Scott
  10. Hello all, Forgive me if this has been covered. I am sure it has been at some point. I am having some brass stamps made so I can do some hot stamping. I currently stamp my makers mark and some requested stamping patterns with a shop press. I am wanting to use an arbor press for accuracy in layout. I plan on buying something inexpensive and having a machine shop bore out the arbor for an insert. My question is does anyone known the thread size and pitch of the most commonly available dies for setting snaps/rivets etc. The insert I have made will be threaded as appropriate and I also want to advise my brass stamp maker on what size rod to make fit the brass stamps. If I am thinking right, the rod that the brass stamps thread onto could be the same size as the insert that will go into the bored hold and fasten with a set screw. The same bored hole will accept the insert that is tapped for the snap setting dies. Clear as mud? Any help you might offer is greatly appreciated as well as a source for good quality snap setter dies. I know Tandy sells them but non sure if they are worth buying or if there is a better option. Thanks in advance, Scott
  11. True story. There are a lot of variables with knives and I would be willing to bet you will get a lot better fit if you make your own pattern. Post up pics once you knock it out!
  12. Hello all, I hope each of you are doing fine. I have a client who has put in an order to do a custom card holder similar to what her husband carries now with the addition of some tooling. In the existing card holder there is an ID window and he uses it. It doesn't have a plastic window but rather a mesh of some sort. Has anyone used mesh to make it somewhat transparent and if so do you have any recommendations for what to buy? To date I haven't done the clear windows for ID and that may be because they don't seem necessary to me but it was requested so here we are. I am sure I could just start trying different ones but if any of you have already invented the wheel I would appreciate any advice you might offer. Thanks in advance. Scott
  13. Weight Lifting Belt Seeking advice on thickness

    I will be happy to share the finished project with everyone. Cheers amigo
  14. Weight Lifting Belt Seeking advice on thickness

    I did decide to follow your recommendation on the bridle inside and veg tan outside so I can tool it. It will be a very basic tooling but one that is important to him. The scenario you describe with it moving will be possible in this particular build. I was able to convince them of doing a 5" back and it will be 3" on sides and front. On the coloring I am shooting for Michigan colors Navy and Maize. I have a eco flo dye that is amazing in color but I am about over using water based dyes. I didn't see it available in the fiebings pro dyes and don't think it would be smart to use water based dye in a sweaty situation. Do you know of anything that will permanently lock in the color of water based and prevent it from rubbing off on clothes? That guitar strap gave me a run for the money trying to get that figured out. Thanks again for the interest. Scott
  15. Weight Lifting Belt Seeking advice on thickness

    Thanks for the reply and I too agree on the true purpose of the belt. I have gotten familiar with many of the more respected belt makers in the mass produced world. It seems the bulk of them are using sole leather in varying thicknesses and suede on the inside and outside. I think the suede is simply to get a vibrant color that gives it some pop while it would give a certain amount of grip on the inside. I appreciate your reply.