MADMAX22

Contributing Member
  • Content count

    3,136
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About MADMAX22

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    WA, USA

LW Info

  • Interested in learning about
    leather working
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    searching

Recent Profile Visitors

17,647 profile views
  1. Recently started using the weldwood gel stuff, seems to work as well or better then the regular weldwood but for me is easier to lay down. It doesnt have the stringyness to it. Worth a try for any of you weldwood users.
  2. From looking at his site there is no mention where most of the leather comes from, a couple say America which is a very vague statement. In most/all of my dealings with leather suppliers if they pay the wholesale price for Hermann oak (for example) they are going to say where it comes from, same goes for say Sedgwick leathers or any other good/decent tannery. Its a selling point. When they dont mention then you either have to assume they dont know (bad) or they are from a source most wouldnt intentionally buy from usually (no name tannery in mexico for example). Also looking at his site he has a "story page" but no story, the front photo looks photoshopped (I would bet he doesnt have a big sign hanging in front of his old timey looking shack). Things like that throw me off. Hey having a old style website not an issue, having a minimalist but thought out website sure, having one with fake looking photos of what I assume are suppose to be his store front ehhh Ill look elsewhere. All just IMHO.
  3. I think it would soak in a little to well on the edges. I think I tried that when I first started and if it had worked well I would still be doing it but I am not so assume it was a failure. As far as using it on finished leather thats a no go, it needs to soak into the leather. Even plain vegtan if not clean can cause issues with a good vinegaroon job ecspecially if opting to paint brush it on (dipping works best IMHO).
  4. Could be the foam when that thick combined with everything else is a little harder to feed which doesnt help the stitch length (depending if you have smooth or toothed feed dog and feet) combined with the effect pointed out above.
  5. Ya dont need 6k rpm. Heck you can burnish by hand if necessary.
  6. EPA probably.
  7. if its vegtan it could be tooled, I personally have never gotten pure vegtan bison only chrome tan. Here is a good search for this subject to give ya some reading. https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=vegetable+tanned+bison+leather+site:leatherworker.net&*
  8. Ya can clean it if you want with whatever, I usually just spray it with a mix of distilled water and saddle soap, slick it,wait till its good to tool and go to town. Neatsfoot oil after it has dried and dyed (if dying it). About a 100 different ways to do it, this is just how I "usually" do it.
  9. Wicket and Craig, goliger,hide house, maverick for one's and twos, hermann oak directly if you can float the minimum.
  10. Yeah I agree, my late mother use to raise german shepherds for the local authorities and subsequently started the training early on so by the time they took custody of the buggers they were already 50% of the way there. Early on we raised Queensland heelers also but training those guys is a whole other story lol. Unfortunately my somewhat bigger dog we got for my wife while I was deploying and still in the Navy so training was left up to her for the first couple of years and when I met her she was still a liberal for the most part so yeah the touchy feely training was used. Didnt work too well since he is a rhodesian ridgeback lab mix, energetic and very hard headed (but a great dog).
  11. Also remember that the HO from some re-sellers are sold with the re-sellers interpretation of the grading system, as in they order a bunch of TR grade leather and scale it according to what they think it is vs how the tannery grades the leather. Basically dont hold it against hermann oak if you order B grade leather and get something that should be a D-.
  12. For bags you would be better off with something that stitches thinner thread and material, for belts I would think it would be a great machine but I dont have one so... I would say go for it if you have the money, just remember regardless of what machine you get that in the future you will almost certainly get another machine since no one machine is perfect for everything. Get the manuals for it and be prepared to learn the machine in and out. Ask questions before tearing into it. Also take along some of the material you want to use for the belts and stitch it out before you buy it and see for yourself. Alot of people dont recommend the old machines yet they all have a bunch of them and dont plan on selling any of them for a say 441 or similar. I know I missed out on a few very good deals because I got directed to buying a 441 when I didnt know any better. Getting a new machine is "easier" for sure since it comes setup and usually a warranty and what not. If you dont plan on or know nothing of mechanics that may be a good route, if you can learn and dont have the funds for a new one then you have more options.
  13. Nicely done. Atleast with old steel you can just add some elbow grease and get looking functional old again. I gotta figure out my knee lift linkage on my 111, where that L bend at the top goes thru the machine mounted linkage it scrapes at the original paint and I find it highly annoying. May have to find a rubber spacer or something to keep it out just a smidgen and off the paint.
  14. Maybe they are better with Jersey folks or firefighters? I gave up on that store a while back. Wont get into the details but there are better options (price/service/billing).
  15. Hopefully that's a smart one that can be trained well because they can almost pull a freight train. We use one of those antipull harness on my dog and he doesn't have any issues with it. He has had one for about 6 yrs now.