ikewineb

Members
  • Content count

    169
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About ikewineb

  • Rank
    Member

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://WWW.SOUTHBOUNDLEATHER.COM

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Rural Hall, NC
  • Interests
    My interest are many and diverse. Leather, Motorcycles, Guns, Tennis, Cars...there just aren't enough hours in the day.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Diverse
  • Interested in learning about
    Everything...I'm always looking for a new chllenge
  1. David, what's a header blade? I think a gouge tool would be the way to go. They are adjustable, so you could vary the depth and therefore the width of the lines. Personally, I would simply antique it. I've never used paints though.
  2. I hold projects together with clamps, at the suggestion of someone else on the forum. I use small binder clips for smaller projects and larger clamps I got at lowes for larger ones. If I understand your issue, you are sewing, and the inside piece slides out between the fold? If that is the case, you could always cut the gusset and then sew the three pieces together, and then finish the edge.
  3. I don't think you can burnish Chrome tanned leather. An edge coat or a rolled edge is about the only real choices, from what I understand. I work nearly entirely with Veg. A dyed through shoulder could be veg tanned. Ask whoever you are buying from. Case leather? I assume you are refering to cased leather. Cased leather is veg tanned leather that has been wet and allowed to return to a near natural color. Basically, the moister is in the middle of the leather. This is a step in carving leather, not a type you buy. The type of leather you use really comes down to what you are wanting to make. I personally wouldn't make a wallet with chrome tanned leather. Not that you can't and that it wouldn't be nice, it's just not really my style of wallet. If I were, I would do as the other member suggested and roll the edge. The easiest, though, if you want a burnished edge on your wallets is to simply get veg tanned leather.
  4. Okay, that's pretty awesome, Dwight. I think you are right, hanging it looks like the way to go. I might hang mine a little different. I think your idea is better than mine, but it might be more than work than I want to do. I got a wall hanger system from lowes yesterday. I got a rod shelf thing that attaches to it. It has three rods, kind of like a hanging rod in a closet. I I'm going to make hangers with a swivel to hang the leather from those rods. I figured I'd take some fabric and make a curtain to go around it, to keep the sun off of it. Doing the wall hanging system, I can use it to store a lot of other items also. I'll let you know how it comes out once I get it done. Thank you guys for your input!
  5. So, I'm looking for some ideas. I'm wanting to build a shelf / storage system for leather. Does anyone have any pictures of what they use? I'm wanting to build a shelf to store the leather flat. I was thinking of adding some side "stations" to it. I was thinking a place to set up a small sewing machine, or the like. I'm thinking of just building it from 2x4 and plywood. I'm just having touble visualizing it.
  6. Try this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ikoKfgm2SMw
  7. Does the glue form the outside edge, or the stitches?
  8. I know, and certainly agree. I guess what I am asking is what is the best practice to be certain I don't.
  9. Okay, so, I need a little input. I'm making this large card carrier. It has a gusset with the seams on the inside. The issue I'm having is that the stitches appear uneven when it is fliped inside out and some of the stitches show. How do you get a nice tight straight looking line? I believe my issue is coming from the glue line and the stitches pulling a little loose when it is flipped inside out, but I'm not 100% sure. The first one I did, I didn't skive the edges. The one I'm working on now, I've skived about 1/4" in (It's 2oz veg tan). I used my machine on the first one with 207 thread. I'm not sure about the stitches per inch. Should the glue line create the line, or the stitches? I was thinking maybe a thinner thread (69) with more stithces per inch as one option. Any ideas or input is welcome.
  10. I've been trying to find more info on zippers also. I've never used them, but want to make my son his first book bag for school. Any recommendations on what type zippers to use? I found this site, that I thought you all might find useful. https://www.qualityzipper.com/order/images/ValuableZipperInformation.pdf
  11. I have a guy that's asked me to make some boots for his girlfriend. I don't make boots. I'm a wallet and bag kind of guy. He has a picture of what he wants. It appears to be a custom pair that someone else has made. Anyway, if anyone is interested in this, I'd gladly pass your name and information along to him.
  12. It's been a while since this was posted, but... I do not have any printable templates. Just take some poster board and cut it out. It's really not that difficult. Start with the gussets. I take the diameter or depth of the bag and then add for the fold to stitch. Then, measure around the gusset and add your overlap for the main body piece. Making the template yourself, also lets you see where you might have issues putting everything together.
  13. I've had request to do initials on a finished product before. I cut letters with a swivel knife and "filled" it in with a wood burner. It actually came out pretty nice.